Wednesday, 13 July 2011

Digby Morton

Digby Morton was born in Dublin in 1906, his father and grandfather before him were accountants for Guinness and it seemed likely at first that he would follow in their footsteps, however, it turned out that Maths and Mr Morton did not get along. He initially thought of becoming an architect but was put off by the 7 year apprenticeship and instead enrolled in the Dublin School of Art.



In 1922 he arrived in London ostensibly for a week's holiday with friends, but instead he stayed and after working in Selfridges advertising department and Liberty as a display artist and decorator he went to Jay's as house artist. This included sketching the latest Paris fashions for Jays's clientele.


Coat October 1938.


Suit Autumn 1939

In 1928 Gray, Paulette & Shingleton commenced business in Mayfair. They wanted to provide an alternative to the Paris couture and English copies that aristocratic women were then buying, they also wanted the clothes to be cheaper though still well made but with fewer fittings. They concentrated on dresses and suits. In 1929 Digby Morton was approached to join the company as designer, he stipulated that he would only work on his own designs and with a hand-picked staff.
He also suggested changing the name of the company to Lachasse. His work in soft tweeds for coats dresses and suits soon became very well known and the company thrived. His designs were based on English country sports styles but with a softer
tailoring as befitted the wools he used. Country tweeds became fashionable town wear under his expert cutting and tailoring. He reduced decoration to the barest minimum allowing the cut to speak for itself. He continued at Lachasse until 1934 when he was succeeded by Hardy Amies.


Dress with draped neckline 1946. Click for Big.


Dress with surplice bodice and short jacket summer 1949. Click for Big.

He set up his own couture house using his own name in deepest Kensington and in 1936 married magazine editor Phylllis Panting (known as Anne Seymour editor of Woman & Beauty). In the late 30s he moved back to Mayfair. As a member of the
Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers he was invited to design initial styles for the Utility scheme and he also designed the uniform of the WRVS. After the war he re-opened his couture house and again started designing unobtrusive suits, dress and coats, and now, also some evening wear but strictly tailored, no meringues.


Coat 1951


Gathered blouse 1952

In the 50s he began to move towards ready-to-wear as many of the couturiers were doing, and he had great success in America. This led to him closing his couture house in 1957 and starting up Reldan-Digby Morton with Nadler. In 1963 he began designing menswear and continued until his retirement in 1973.


Ford advert May 1955. Click for Big.


Ford advert August 1955. Click for Big.

Sorry for the long absence, I've been ill.

12 comments:

Elegancemaison said...

Thank you for this very informative post about Digby Morton, and Lachasse. The very talented British couturiers/designers of this era get so little mention and remain relatively unknown to the vintage fashion enthusiasts I meet. I've been lucky to have owned and, sadly, sold two beautiful dresses designed by him. And several Lachasse pieces. Always superbly tailored and constructed.
Very sorry to hear that you've been ill. I do hope you're now recovering well. I always enjoy your posts.

Anonymous said...

From a long-time (appreciative) lurker -
So sorry to hear you've been ill - do hope you're fully recovered. I assumed you were on holiday, or a buying trip. Love your posts!

Miss Peelpants said...

I have a soft spot for Digby. Aside from a CC41 suit I'm certain was one of his designs from the first range of Utility clothing, I've only had one piece which was a hefty black coat. Absolutely stunning but a good two sizes too large for me, and so off it went to Kerry Taylor auctions. Thank you for a great post, and get well soon! xx

Miss Rayne said...

Miss Peelpants, yes I've only had one piece of his, a stunning jacket from the early 50s about a size 2:(

thankyou all for your kind wishes, it was some sort of unidentifiable virus (aren't they all these days) and I am much better

Kate said...

I've given you a blog award :)
http://vintageinamodernworld.blogspot.com/2011/07/award-time.html

Pearl Westwood said...

What a wonderful post!

Miss Rayne said...

Kate - thankyou

Julian said...

Dear Miss Rayne,
I was so thrilled to see so much interest in Digby Morton on your site. My mother and Digby were first cousins and I met him several times. I grew up in the house in Dublin where he had grown up. The first time I met him was at his salon in London in 1947 when I was but 10 years old. I wonder did you know him? I am a retired professor of Music and have had a modes career as a pianist and conductor. I like to think that my artistic genes have more than a little connection with the Morton family. I own a number of his early designs when he was at Jay's. Do let me know if I can give you any other information about Digby. Julian Dawson, Evanston, Illinois.

Miss Rayne said...

Julian
lovely to hear from you, I would love to hear about anything you can tell me.
Please email me at
tracy{at}wickedlady.com

I have a couple of 1940s/50s magazine articles I can copy for you.

Anonymous said...

Dear Miss Rayne,

I am currently writing about London fashion in the 1930s and was very interested in your image of the model standing next to the scotsman. Can you let me know which magazine this was from and what date?

michelle said...

Hi Miss Rayne,

great blog, I am really interested in the digby morton suit and the scotsman image. Can you tell me which magazine this is from and what date?

thanks I am currently writing about 1930s fashion and have the photograph that this image is an adaptation of from 1932.

Miss Rayne said...

Hi Michelle
that picture is from Eve's Journal august 1939